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How to Plan a Tile Layout Before You Start

Short answer: Snap centre lines, dry-lay a row in both directions, and shift the layout so no perimeter cut is narrower than about a third of a tile. Decide where the sliver goes before you mix any thinset.

Start from the middle, not the wall

Rooms are not square. Start a floor tight against one wall and by the time you reach the opposite wall the courses will have drifted, leaving a wedge-shaped cut down the most visible edge. Snapping two perpendicular centre lines and working outward splits any error into two smaller, symmetrical cuts instead.

The exception is a long narrow space such as a hallway, where a single reference line down the centre of the run matters far more than the cross line.

Dry lay before you commit

Lay a full row of tiles with grout spacers along each centre line, out to the wall, without adhesive. Now you can see the cut you are going to get:

Sliver cuts are the classic amateur giveaway. They are also fragile: a 3/4 in strip of porcelain usually breaks while you are setting it, and it never sits flat.

Decide where the cuts should land

You get to choose which edges take the cut tiles. In order of preference, put them:

  1. Under a future appliance, cabinet toe-kick or vanity — invisible.
  2. Along the wall you see least, typically the one behind you as you enter.
  3. Split evenly on both sides for a symmetrical room like a bathroom floor.

Never put the cut row in the doorway. That is exactly where every visitor's eye lands, and it is also where two floor finishes meet, so the transition is already busy.

Grout joint width

TileTypical jointWhy
Rectified porcelain, large format1/16–1/8 in Edges are machined straight
Standard pressed ceramic1/8–3/16 in Absorbs size variation between tiles
Natural stone, tumbled1/8–1/4 in Irregular edges need the room
Handmade, saltillo1/4–1/2 in Sizes genuinely vary

A wider joint is not sloppiness, it is tolerance. Forcing a 1/16 in joint on tile that varies by 1/16 in guarantees visible misalignment. The joint width also changes how many tiles you need, which is why the tile calculator asks for it — on small tiles a 1/8 in joint takes several percent off the count.

Offset patterns and lippage

Running-bond offsets are traditional, but on long plank-format tiles a 50% offset can produce noticeable lippage, because most large tiles bow slightly along their length and the centre of one tile ends up against the end of the next. A third-offset — around 33% — is the common remedy, and many large-format manufacturers specify it.

Before the first trowel of thinset

Tile Calculator

Enter the area and your tile size to get the tile count, the number of boxes to buy, and the square footage to quote — with the grout joint and a cut allowance included, which is where most tile estimates go wrong.

Open the Tile →

Frequently asked questions

Should I start tiling in the middle of the room or at a wall?

Snap centre lines and work outward for most rooms. It splits the unavoidable error from out-of-square walls into two symmetrical cuts instead of one visible wedge. For a narrow hallway, a single centre line along the run is what matters.

How narrow is too narrow for a cut tile?

Below about a third of a tile width it looks like a mistake and tends to break during setting. If your dry lay produces slivers, shift the whole layout by half a tile so both edges get a usable piece.

What grout joint should I use?

One sixteenth to one eighth of an inch for rectified porcelain, an eighth to three sixteenths for standard ceramic, and a quarter inch or more for tumbled stone and handmade tile. Wider joints absorb size variation between tiles.

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